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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I struggled for quite awhile to install a new Continental Elite Poly-V serpentine belt (4060495) from the top on my '13 Rav4. Here are a few things I learned.
- There's enough clearance to unload the tensioner and remove the old belt from the top of the motor. However, I couldn't get the new belt on from the top. I suspect that is because the old belt was a bit stretched but the new belt was very tight. Even with the tensioner fully unloaded to its stop, I couldn't stretch the belt enough to get it over the final pulley...regardless of what final pulley I tried.
- From the top, I could route the belt around all the pulleys (except the tensioner pulley) but didn't have the access/clearance to hold the tensioner at its stop and push the belt over the tensioner pulley at the same time.
- If I routed the belt around all pulleys (including the tensioner) except for the alternator pulley, I didn't have enough excess length to push the belt over the taller outside lip on the alternator pulley.
- The crankshaft pulley is accessible from underneath the vehicle, so that may help with removal or installation.
- I removed the 4" bracket near the alternator (one 10mm bolt) and moved the attached wiring harness to gain a little extra room.
Regardless of what I did, I just couldn't get the belt on from the top. Instead, I installed the belt by accessing the front of the motor through the right wheel well.
- Remove front right tire.
- Remove 4 plastic fasteners holding the splash guard (approx. 12"x 16") near the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove the splash guard.
- Route the belt around all pulleys by working through the wheel well and from the top of the motor. Gather up all the excess slack near the tensioner.
- I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner. There wasn't enough clearance between the tensioner and the vehicle frame to fit anything larger. Plus, a box end wrench wasn't adjustable enough for me to get it to point downward into the wheel well area. I put a thin copper pipe on the end of the ratchet handle so that it would project straight down into the wheel well area far enough that I could get a hold of it. The ratcheting action allowed me to place it where I could rotate the ratchet handle within the available space while unloading the tensioner.
- Unload the tensioner to full stop and then slide the belt over the tensioner. It was a really close fit--there's almost no excess belt length to work with--but it popped right on. Because the tensioner pulley doesn't have a lip, the belt slides on easier.
That is, by far, the easiest way to remove and install the belt and is about a 15 minute job if one goes through the wheel well. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I had to learn it the hard way. Hope that helps someone else!
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Both the Gen2 and Gen3 are done thru the passenger side wheel well. Maybe if you watched a few youtube video you could have save the time what works.
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I'm guessing this would be the same for a 2015 XLE?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm guessing this would be the same for a 2015 XLE?
I would imagine. Perhaps someone with a '15 could confirm the same access panel in the wheel well.
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so last time i was at a dealership for 55k miles service, they recommended to replace the serpentine belt. is it necessary to replace this at this point?? my 4.4 is 2013 xle awd with 55k miles.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so last time i was at a dealership for 55k miles service, they recommended to replace the serpentine belt. is it necessary to replace this at this point?? my 4.4 is 2013 xle awd with 55k miles.
50K miles is about the recommended service interval. Folks often use them a lot longer than that. If you want to push beyond the regular service interval, you could inspect regularly for cracks and signs of wear.
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thanks for the feedback bob k.
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I struggled for quite awhile to install a new Continental Elite Poly-V serpentine belt (4060495) from the top on my '13 Rav4. Here are a few things I learned.
- There's enough clearance to unload the tensioner and remove the old belt from the top of the motor. However, I couldn't get the new belt on from the top. I suspect that is because the old belt was a bit stretched but the new belt was very tight. Even with the tensioner fully unloaded to its stop, I couldn't stretch the belt enough to get it over the final pulley...regardless of what final pulley I tried.
- From the top, I could route the belt around all the pulleys (except the tensioner pulley) but didn't have the access/clearance to hold the tensioner at its stop and push the belt over the tensioner pulley at the same time.
- If I routed the belt around all pulleys (including the tensioner) except for the alternator pulley, I didn't have enough excess length to push the belt over the taller outside lip on the alternator pulley.
- The crankshaft pulley is accessible from underneath the vehicle, so that may help with removal or installation.
- I removed the 4" bracket near the alternator (one 10mm bolt) and moved the attached wiring harness to gain a little extra room.
Regardless of what I did, I just couldn't get the belt on from the top. Instead, I installed the belt by accessing the front of the motor through the right wheel well.
- Remove front right tire.
- Remove 4 plastic fasteners holding the splash guard (approx. 12"x 16") near the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove the splash guard.
- Route the belt around all pulleys by working through the wheel well and from the top of the motor. Gather up all the excess slack near the tensioner.
- I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner. There wasn't enough clearance between the tensioner and the vehicle frame to fit anything larger. Plus, a box end wrench wasn't adjustable enough for me to get it to point downward into the wheel well area. I put a thin copper pipe on the end of the ratchet handle so that it would project straight down into the wheel well area far enough that I could get a hold of it. The ratcheting action allowed me to place it where I could rotate the ratchet handle within the available space while unloading the tensioner.
- Unload the tensioner to full stop and then slide the belt over the tensioner. It was a really close fit--there's almost no excess belt length to work with--but it popped right on. Because the tensioner pulley doesn't have a lip, the belt slides on easier.
That is, by far, the easiest way to remove and install the belt and is about a 15 minute job if one goes through the wheel well. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I had to learn it the hard way. Hope that helps someone else!
Yes 15 minutes is what it took, I was on this job for about 3 hrs. and could not get the belt on.Then i saw this post and what do you know it is easier this way. Thanks a million.
I struggled for quite awhile to install a new Continental Elite Poly-V serpentine belt (4060495) from the top on my '13 Rav4. Here are a few things I learned.
- There's enough clearance to unload the tensioner and remove the old belt from the top of the motor. However, I couldn't get the new belt on from the top. I suspect that is because the old belt was a bit stretched but the new belt was very tight. Even with the tensioner fully unloaded to its stop, I couldn't stretch the belt enough to get it over the final pulley...regardless of what final pulley I tried.
- From the top, I could route the belt around all the pulleys (except the tensioner pulley) but didn't have the access/clearance to hold the tensioner at its stop and push the belt over the tensioner pulley at the same time.
- If I routed the belt around all pulleys (including the tensioner) except for the alternator pulley, I didn't have enough excess length to push the belt over the taller outside lip on the alternator pulley.
- The crankshaft pulley is accessible from underneath the vehicle, so that may help with removal or installation.
- I removed the 4" bracket near the alternator (one 10mm bolt) and moved the attached wiring harness to gain a little extra room.
Regardless of what I did, I just couldn't get the belt on from the top. Instead, I installed the belt by accessing the front of the motor through the right wheel well.
- Remove front right tire.
- Remove 4 plastic fasteners holding the splash guard (approx. 12"x 16") near the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove the splash guard.
- Route the belt around all pulleys by working through the wheel well and from the top of the motor. Gather up all the excess slack near the tensioner.
- I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner. There wasn't enough clearance between the tensioner and the vehicle frame to fit anything larger. Plus, a box end wrench wasn't adjustable enough for me to get it to point downward into the wheel well area. I put a thin copper pipe on the end of the ratchet handle so that it would project straight down into the wheel well area far enough that I could get a hold of it. The ratcheting action allowed me to place it where I could rotate the ratchet handle within the available space while unloading the tensioner.
- Unload the tensioner to full stop and then slide the belt over the tensioner. It was a really close fit--there's almost no excess belt length to work with--but it popped right on. Because the tensioner pulley doesn't have a lip, the belt slides on easier.
That is, by far, the easiest way to remove and install the belt and is about a 15 minute job if one goes through the wheel well. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I had to learn it the hard way. Hope that helps someone else!
I struggled for quite awhile to install a new Continental Elite Poly-V serpentine belt (4060495) from the top on my '13 Rav4. Here are a few things I learned.
- There's enough clearance to unload the tensioner and remove the old belt from the top of the motor. However, I couldn't get the new belt on from the top. I suspect that is because the old belt was a bit stretched but the new belt was very tight. Even with the tensioner fully unloaded to its stop, I couldn't stretch the belt enough to get it over the final pulley...regardless of what final pulley I tried.
- From the top, I could route the belt around all the pulleys (except the tensioner pulley) but didn't have the access/clearance to hold the tensioner at its stop and push the belt over the tensioner pulley at the same time.
- If I routed the belt around all pulleys (including the tensioner) except for the alternator pulley, I didn't have enough excess length to push the belt over the taller outside lip on the alternator pulley.
- The crankshaft pulley is accessible from underneath the vehicle, so that may help with removal or installation.
- I removed the 4" bracket near the alternator (one 10mm bolt) and moved the attached wiring harness to gain a little extra room.
Regardless of what I did, I just couldn't get the belt on from the top. Instead, I installed the belt by accessing the front of the motor through the right wheel well.
- Remove front right tire.
- Remove 4 plastic fasteners holding the splash guard (approx. 12"x 16") near the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove the splash guard.
- Route the belt around all pulleys by working through the wheel well and from the top of the motor. Gather up all the excess slack near the tensioner.
- I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner. There wasn't enough clearance between the tensioner and the vehicle frame to fit anything larger. Plus, a box end wrench wasn't adjustable enough for me to get it to point downward into the wheel well area. I put a thin copper pipe on the end of the ratchet handle so that it would project straight down into the wheel well area far enough that I could get a hold of it. The ratcheting action allowed me to place it where I could rotate the ratchet handle within the available space while unloading the tensioner.
- Unload the tensioner to full stop and then slide the belt over the tensioner. It was a really close fit--there's almost no excess belt length to work with--but it popped right on. Because the tensioner pulley doesn't have a lip, the belt slides on easier.
That is, by far, the easiest way to remove and install the belt and is about a 15 minute job if one goes through the wheel well. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I had to learn it the hard way. Hope that helps someone else!
I struggled for quite awhile to install a new Continental Elite Poly-V serpentine belt (4060495) from the top on my '13 Rav4. Here are a few things I learned.
- There's enough clearance to unload the tensioner and remove the old belt from the top of the motor. However, I couldn't get the new belt on from the top. I suspect that is because the old belt was a bit stretched but the new belt was very tight. Even with the tensioner fully unloaded to its stop, I couldn't stretch the belt enough to get it over the final pulley...regardless of what final pulley I tried.
- From the top, I could route the belt around all the pulleys (except the tensioner pulley) but didn't have the access/clearance to hold the tensioner at its stop and push the belt over the tensioner pulley at the same time.
- If I routed the belt around all pulleys (including the tensioner) except for the alternator pulley, I didn't have enough excess length to push the belt over the taller outside lip on the alternator pulley.
- The crankshaft pulley is accessible from underneath the vehicle, so that may help with removal or installation.
- I removed the 4" bracket near the alternator (one 10mm bolt) and moved the attached wiring harness to gain a little extra room.
Regardless of what I did, I just couldn't get the belt on from the top. Instead, I installed the belt by accessing the front of the motor through the right wheel well.
- Remove front right tire.
- Remove 4 plastic fasteners holding the splash guard (approx. 12"x 16") near the bottom front of the wheel well. Remove the splash guard.
- Route the belt around all pulleys by working through the wheel well and from the top of the motor. Gather up all the excess slack near the tensioner.
- I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner. There wasn't enough clearance between the tensioner and the vehicle frame to fit anything larger. Plus, a box end wrench wasn't adjustable enough for me to get it to point downward into the wheel well area. I put a thin copper pipe on the end of the ratchet handle so that it would project straight down into the wheel well area far enough that I could get a hold of it. The ratcheting action allowed me to place it where I could rotate the ratchet handle within the available space while unloading the tensioner.
- Unload the tensioner to full stop and then slide the belt over the tensioner. It was a really close fit--there's almost no excess belt length to work with--but it popped right on. Because the tensioner pulley doesn't have a lip, the belt slides on easier.
That is, by far, the easiest way to remove and install the belt and is about a 15 minute job if one goes through the wheel well. Maybe that's obvious to some, but I had to learn it the hard way. Hope that helps someone else!
I just went through this on a 17 rav 4. I used 2 long prybars, one on tensioner, the other to pop the belt over the tensioner pulley, no jack, no panel removal.
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Just replaced my serpentine belt this morning in my 2014 XLE. The trick is to slide the belt to the water pump as the last pulley. At 100k miles, my old serpentine belt is still intact, not even a sign of cracks....
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Q? Which bolt relieves the tension, the one on the pulley and then there's 2 more diagonally lined up (looking at the top of the motor)?
Also, how much deflection does the new belt give?
Thanks guys.
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Q? Which bolt relieves the tension, the one on the pulley and then there's 2 more diagonally lined up (looking at the top of the motor)?
Also, how much deflection does the new belt give?
Thanks guys.
Please see the point #4 from Bob K's post above:
I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket to unload the tensioner.
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I was referring to which bolt b/c some articles shows that the tensioner bolt is on the pulley but looking at the top, I see 2 bolts then the bolt that attaches the pulley of the tensioner.
Sorry if I confused anyone.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was referring to which bolt b/c some articles shows that the tensioner bolt is on the pulley but looking at the top, I see 2 bolts then the bolt that attaches the pulley of the tensioner.
Depends on the particular design of your tensioner. On mine, I can connect at either one of these fixed "bolt head" locations in order to unload the tensioner. That hole in the middle is how the tensioner mounts to the motor and isn't used for unloading the tensioner.
I'm not sure what you're asking with "how much deflection does the new belt give".
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Just replaced my serpentine belt this morning in my 2014 XLE. The trick is to slide the belt to the water pump as the last pulley. At 100k miles, my old serpentine belt is still intact, not even a sign of cracks....
I heard the EPDM serpentine belts do not show the sign of wear even with 100k miles.
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The belt that I had replaced still looks good, could have served for another 100k miles....
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I had a 2010 Rav4 Base. It had a water pump noise. Since I had to remove the belt, I installed a new belt, belt tensioner, thermostat and gasket, and water pump. If you need to do the water pump, might as well get all that done at the same time.
Posted by: muimuimengwassere0271987.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/serpentine-belt-accessory-belt-replacement-tips.269434/
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